Operates 9.4 hours at 50% load and 6.1 hours at the rated load using only 2.6 Gallons of fuel. Weighs only 71Lbs. 

Receptacles are 20A GFCI, 125v Duplex, 30A 125V locking plug

Dimensions are 17.5"L x 15.8"W x 18.9"H

3000 watt 120 volt full GFCI protected Generator

How do I convert amps to watts?

Appliances frequently list their power requirements in amps. Most generators list their output in watts. Fortunately, it's easy to convert from one to the other:

Watts = Volts x Amps

Amps = Watts/Volts

Most appliances use 120 volts.

If you have two of the numbers (e.g. volts, amps) then you can find out the other (e.g. watts). This can help you to determine the rated power that you'll need from your generator.

Starting vs. Running Wattage

Some appliances require extra power to start up, while others maintain the same power requirements constantly.

To calculate your power needs correctly, you need to know which kind of load you are dealing with. (A load is defined as the device that you are powering.)  There are two kinds of loads:

Resistive loads 

Resistive loads are pretty simple:  they require the same amount of power to both start and run the equipment. Many resistive loads are involved in heating or making heat of some kind. Examples of resistive loads include:  Light bulbs, Coffee maker, Toaster. 

Reactive Loads 

Reactive loads contain an electric motor, which requires additional power to start, but significantly less power to run once it gets going. Typically starting power is 3 times the amount of power to run the application.   Examples of reactive loads include:

Refrigerators / freezers, Furnace fans, Well pumps, Air conditioners, Bench grinders, Air compressors, Power tools.

Some household appliances, like a furnace or refrigerator, have internal fans that come on intermittently. Extra wattage/power is needed to start the fan each time.  Refrigerators also have a defrost cycle that requires power in addition to the compressor and fans.

Reactive loads may also require additional power when the electric motor begins to work.  For example, when a saw begins cutting wood, its power requirement will increase. This is not applicable for most household appliances.

My appliance is a 1000 watt model, but it takes 1600 watts to run it. Why?

Some devices are labeled or promoted with a power number. For example, a hair dryer might say "1000W." This means the hair dryer itself produces 1000 watts of heat energy. But the amount the hair dryer uses from a power outlet is always more than it produces in heat. This is because the device's energy use is not 100% efficient.

Another example is a microwave oven. It may be marketed as "1100 watt oven" and indeed produce 1100 watts of cooking power, but it will require more than that from a generator.

Translating the data tag:

For some appliances, you can determine the power needed by looking at the data tag supplied by the electric motor manufacturer.

All electrical motors should have a data tag attached to their bodies that give volts, amps, phase, cycles, hp, and sometimes a code.

Volts (V) - The volts must be either 120 (110-120) or 120/240. 120/240 means that the motor can be wired to operate on 120V or 240V. Honda generators are either 120V or 120/240V.

Amps (A) - Indicates the amps required to RUN the electric motor but doesn't consider STARTING or LOADED power requirements.

Phase (PH) - Honda Generators can only power single phase motors.

Horsepower (HP) - Rating of how much work an electric motor can perform.

Code - This isn't always provided on the data tag. It represents the maximum STARTING power required of the electric motor. You can multiply the code (amps) times the Horsepower of motor to determine starting amps.

Cycles (Hz) - All U.S. electrical appliances run at 60 cycles per second.

To determine the wattage needed, use 

Amps x Volts = Watts